“I think my first trip to Hawaii was a vacation in Kauai,” contemplates Carolyn Murphy. “I was immediately captivated by the greenery and the lush tropical land—like I could see and feel the earth breathing.” This is a sentiment shared by her design partners. Today, just in time for International Surfing Day, the eco-minded and surf-loving supermodel launches Surf’s Up, her second upcycled collection with Lela Becker and Tim Kaeding of Los Angeles-based denim brand Mother. It’s also the third release of 60% Mother, which denotes the brand’s collections that are primarily made of repurposed vintage and dead-stock garments and textiles.

For the 12-piece capsule, which features patchwork tapestry ponchos, Hawaiian shirts, snug ribbed knits, and a beach tote, Murphy found the ideal muses in her three uncles, who shuttled between Hawaii and California in the 1970s chasing waves. One, Bob, designed logos for Op and Hang Ten, which

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The events of the past few years have inspired many consumers to engage in retail therapy for a reprieve. But new research by McKinsey shows that company performance across the apparel, fashion, and luxury (AF&L) sector has been quite fragmented, with some companies gaining an upper hand over the past few years. In short, whether a company can outperform its competitors in the global apparel market relies largely on the segment in which it operates (see sidebar, “Fashion category definitions”), though, of course, strategic and operational choices can also make an impact.






In 2020, we examined the industry’s TSR and recommended that companies take decisive action in the face of ambiguity.


At the time, premium and luxury segments were significant outperformers in the AF&L market—a trend that endured throughout the

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Decades is opening a monthlong pop-up at Sage & Madison in Sag Harbor, New York, on Friday.

Featuring a mix of vintage, preloved designers and emerging sustainable fashions from around the globe, each week a different international designer will set up shop, starting with Etro.

In the following weeks, designers featured will be Loretta Caponi (July 21 to 24), St. John (July 28 through Aug. 1) and Rosior (Aug. 4 through 9).

Vintage looks from designers such as Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Hermès and Valentino will be carried, along with one-of-a-kind pieces by Ellen Macomber of New Orleans; Cliquot Kimono of Los Angeles; Kneaded Fashion of Austin, Texas; Canty Boots of Montana, and Anna Porcu of Italy. In addition, the shop will feature Triarchy denim, Amber Sakai T-shirts, Vada eyewear and Nardi jewelry.

Sage & Madison, a boutique hotel, is located at 31 Madison Street in Sag Harbor. It has a

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As the sun set on a courtyard of shipping containers in Ghana’s capital Accra, young men and women in Pink Floyd, Grateful Dead and tie-dye tees bartered over army surplus jackets and Adidas sneakers while a live deejay spun Afrobeat classics.

The Vintage Gala, as 23-year old founders Prince Quist and James Edem Doe Dartey dubbed it, brought together a movement of young vintage enthusiasts pushing back against the global fast fashion industry by encouraging their peers to shop secondhand.

“If you wear clothes that were made back in the day…you’re helping the environment by not using the raw materials and other things needed to make new ones,” Quist said, seated in front of the booth for his and Dartey’s online shop, TT Vintage Store.

“The idea is just to inspire everyone to thrift vintage, because secondhand goods aren’t second-class stuff,” Dartey added. “Vintage shopping makes recycling even better.”

Ghana

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As Covid-19 rampaged across Europe in 2020, Primark’s managers could only watch as online rivals muscled in to supply T-shirts, hoodies and pajamas to its locked-down customers.

With no online sales channel, the discount clothing store was faced with total closure and burning through £100mn of cash per week.

The retail powerhouse that was forecast to make £1bn of operating profit in the year to September 2020 ended up making less than a third of that.

But even the toll of the pandemic has not persuaded Primark to finally embrace online shopping.

George Weston, chief executive of the chain’s owner, Associated British Foods, told the Financial Times that while it was “a nice hypothesis” that Covid had changed the industry for good, sending shoppers permanently online, the growth in Primark’s market share compared with before the pandemic suggested that was not correct.

Weston is adamant Primark “is and always has

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