As the sun set on a courtyard of shipping containers in Ghana’s capital Accra, young men and women in Pink Floyd, Grateful Dead and tie-dye tees bartered over army surplus jackets and Adidas sneakers while a live deejay spun Afrobeat classics.

The Vintage Gala, as 23-year old founders Prince Quist and James Edem Doe Dartey dubbed it, brought together a movement of young vintage enthusiasts pushing back against the global fast fashion industry by encouraging their peers to shop secondhand.

“If you wear clothes that were made back in the day…you’re helping the environment by not using the raw materials and other things needed to make new ones,” Quist said, seated in front of the booth for his and Dartey’s online shop, TT Vintage Store.

“The idea is just to inspire everyone to thrift vintage, because secondhand goods aren’t second-class stuff,” Dartey added. “Vintage shopping makes recycling even better.”

Ghana

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As Covid-19 rampaged across Europe in 2020, Primark’s managers could only watch as online rivals muscled in to supply T-shirts, hoodies and pajamas to its locked-down customers.

With no online sales channel, the discount clothing store was faced with total closure and burning through £100mn of cash per week.

The retail powerhouse that was forecast to make £1bn of operating profit in the year to September 2020 ended up making less than a third of that.

But even the toll of the pandemic has not persuaded Primark to finally embrace online shopping.

George Weston, chief executive of the chain’s owner, Associated British Foods, told the Financial Times that while it was “a nice hypothesis” that Covid had changed the industry for good, sending shoppers permanently online, the growth in Primark’s market share compared with before the pandemic suggested that was not correct.

Weston is adamant Primark “is and always has

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Nynne, the fashion house created by Danish-born Nynne Kunde, is on a carefully plotted trajectory: a modern luxury brand focused on craftsmanship, and exaggerated silhouettes, that is ready to explore the American market in 2023.

Kunde graduated from the Istituto Marangoni in London in 2018 and a year later she was selling her eponymous label, initially into Japan through upscale retailer Ron Herman. The brand was picked up in Paris which, to date, is Nynne’s main sell-in location where it is showcased about four times a year.

In its early days, Nynne expanded through wholesale, keeping the online channel at arm’s length due to practical issues such as stock volumes, and the costs involved in returns, for example.

“Now that we are expanding we have pre-orders online, as well

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Jackets are hung on one wall of Bada Seck’s single-room atelier in the Ngor arrondissement of Dakar in Senegal, dresses are arranged alongside another. Half-made garments lie on top of an unused sewing machine and bags of fabric cover the floor.

Seck’s workshop, in this former fishing village on the westernmost edge of the Senegalese capital might be modest, but his clients come from as far away as France.

Bada Seck shopping for fabric

“If there is the means, I make European styles with African fabrics,” he says, as he takes a brightly patterned suit jacket off the wall to look over. Festivals are particularly busy time for him. “With Eid al-Adha and Eid al-Fitr there’s a lot of work – a lot, a lot. More than we can keep up with. Even if we work all night, till 5am. It’s tough, because everyone dresses up, and our work isn’t fast.”

Seck creates mostly

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Translated by

Nicola Mira

Published



Dec 19, 2022

Eleventy has expanded its international presence by opening the first London store. The men’s and women’s label’s store is located inside the Berkeley hotel in the luxury district of Knightsbridge. It features five extensive shop windows overlooking the street and a shop window and entrance also inside the hotel.

The Eleventy store in London

The store’s interiors are characterized by natural materials with fine-grained surfaces such as travertine, textured plaster and oak wood, enhanced by contrasting steel details.

“Investing in our direct retail presence by opening flagships on the world’s most iconic streets is a strategic choice for both our retail expansion and our positioning within the luxury segment. Establishing a presence in the most prestigious and exclusive hotels is a key, coherent element of that strategy,” said Marco Baldassari, co-founder of Eleventy.

The new London store is part of the label’s

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